Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Back onward. . . to the bouldering motherland. . .



I decided to take a vacation within a vacation, and visit my good friend Daniel Sherer in his quite "Dan" home in Berkeley, CA. . . with "Dan" meaning the quintessential home. . . simple, colorful, comfortable, and the best patio I can imagine. Quite conveniently, my good friends JB and Sarah were flying into San Francisco and a backyard cookout was quickly planned yet unquickly prepared for, just a little southern pace on the West Coast. Fleet Foxes were played just loud enough that the neighbors would not hear and burgers were consumed. Sarah, JB, and Dan left at 3:30 this morning for the climbing motherland which some may know as Yosemite. I am heading back to Bishop to meet up with two friends, wait for my renewed tags to come in the mail, and most importantly climb some more of the best boulders in the world.

I was taking picture of absolutely everything on Dan's back patio








The well executed barbeque



Cricket pondering the meaning of life


Longboarding down the gateway to the Buttermilks




Jesus in Heaven. . . Ha


Last but not least. . . I have made a short video with roughly 3.2% of the climbing that has been done here in Bishop, fortunately I brought my camera to two of the best problems

BISHOP VIDEO---------> >--- > >->>---- --- ->>---->------ > here or here or here

Thursday, April 21, 2011
















This past week has been as about as good as it gets. Before I get going rambling about a few of this weeks "eventful events" (is that even possible, could it mean the most eventful or is that like a double negative and it means it was uneventful, Im going to assume the former), I want to talk a little about what drives me, about inspiration and not climbing aimlessly. Climbing aimlessly to me means climbing without being aware of everything else that it entails: the people, the process, the setting. The boulders here are enormous, and climbing them seems like David vs. Goliath. Sometimes, I boulder and it seems like a David vs. David fight. I dont necessarily think this is because of the difficulty, physical or technical, of the boulder problem, but the mental aspect of the climbing here. The rocks, as I said, are enormous, and the lines (the certain way up the rock) are obvious and proud. The Sierra Nevada mountains abruptly begin at the boulders here. There are no foothills to gradually introduce you to the harsh terrain. Storms constantly roll through unexpectedly, hidden by the peaks to our west. These boulders seem like they were designed to be climbed, but at the same time it seems as if they were not. The vast open space and enormous mountains all seem to downsize the boulders that we aspire to climb daily. It is as if the landscape brings the boulders down to our level, so we climb them. We are David and they all are Goliath.

The Buttermilks are the most inspiring boulders I have climbed on. Climbing these big lines requires not only the physical capabilities, but a certain mindset, a confidence in yourself, your pads, spotter(s). The end result is a complete satisfaction. I pull over the last hold and I feel utterly drained, in every way possible and I know that that moment is why I climb, to test my physical and mental capacities, to initially have doubt and channel it into confidence, to initially feel fear and use the inspiration all around me to change it to courage. The end result is nearly as good as it gets, atleast in the realm of bouldering.

As for eventful events, I just decided to put pictures up since a picture is worth a thousand words and I would rather put 10 pictures up at this point then type 10,000 words. Also here is my last memory of my Bishop, CA trip from two years ago with 4 friends from Athens. That trip was the first time in my life that I realized that I wanted to, and could, travel the country and climb. It was a major factor in molding me into who and where I am today which seems to be near perfect.

It was the last day of our nine day bouldering trip from our home in Athens, GA, an adventure by every definition, and we had already climbed 8 of the days. Our stories were piling up as we practiced telling these adventures nightly in anticipation of rehashing them later on to those who did not make the pilgrimage. We arrived at the starting hold at dusk. End of day sends sent screams across the road from the more accessible boulders across the road. The sun was setting over the Sierra Nevadas, something our clan always managed to pause and watch, being as different as we could ever imagine from the older and seemingly wiser Appalachians. These mountains seemed as if they were young and fearless, like a 16 year old on a joyride the night after they received their license. Being so different, something still felt incredibly comfortable, being so far from home.
We began deciphering the beta, and placing pads haphazardly. Our fingertips screamed for a hiatus from the relentless granite, and begged for the southern sandstone and foliage padded ground they were accustomed to. We were as full of fatigue as we thought possible, but this line was the one from our dreams, and I had to try. After one unsuccessful attempt, and one successful break, I clenched the starting hold of my last problem in Bishop. We would leave later tonight, meeting the now setting sun farther east the next morning, and the next. My feet left the earth, and began to dance across the rock in unison with my hands. I passed my high point three moves in and continued to negotiate a checkerboard of patina. It seemed as the beauty of the moment fueled my desire to extend it. For a brief moment on this linear timeline we call life, I could redefine what gravity is. I was at my limit on a not so well-rested, but well-fed day. I was one move from the final hold, 15 feet from the ground. I harnessed all the energy I had left and placed my fingertips just over the edge of the final, just far enough away jug. Then, I fell. I tried one more time and the same result occurred in the same spot. Any other outcome would have been just another send, but this failure created a memory, a story. This is why I climb, for the possibility to limit what is impossible while constantly searching for the unlimited possibilities.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

onward to the bouldering motherland...

My time in Flagstaff has been, well, a bit unconventional compared to the rest of the trip thus far. Jesus and I got here a week ago, and have managed to climb just two days. Mother nature and her April snow showers have been the dominant factor in our lack of climbing. However, it has been a great week, full of rest, good times, good people, and a really cool town. Monday was my birthday and on Sunday night all four of us went to the Talib Kweli show at the Orpheum here in downtown Flag. My dad was cool enough to hook us up with a hotel room for my birthday and we pregamed there with one four loco (which I will never drink again) a bottle of wine between three of us and a good ole tall boy PBR. We were all significantly under 100% the next day to say the least, and its safe to say that I was in the worst shape. The show was amazing, Tom nearly got kicked out, Mike danced with nearly every girl, and at the end Tom and I's effort to meet Talib was thwarted by every doorman there. I seemed to get more drunk as I stopped drinking halfway through the show and do not remember going to bed. Now Jesus and I are off to Bishop for a few weeks. I am super stoked, mainly to get on one problem. . . checkerboard. . . I fell off the last move the last day of my trip two years ago when me and four fellow Athenians traveled across the country to Bishop, and I have been thinking about this problem ever since.

I also forgot to add that Mike and I were the billiards champs of Flagstaff. With a 2-1 series victory. Team chemistry seemed to be the crucial factor in the win, as well as Kobe like ice in our veins. Good luck next time Tom and Jesus, you gotta lot of work to do.



Saturday, April 9, 2011

Forced Flag rest yet Fun days


Tom and Mikes bus


"my hands are fucked"


Jesus, Tom, Mike, and I are sitting one of the many Flagstaff coffee shops yet again. It snowed an inch or so yesterday, but it was fine since it was a rest day anyways. We slept late, then proceeded to drive 45 minutes to the YMCA which ended up only being 3 miles away. Jesus and I were able to charm the receptionist into letting us in free. Tom and Mike were unable to do so and were asked, well told, to pay $10. We played three hours of basketball. There were many three point shot attempts, and no look shots but few no look passes, yet numerous fouls. After the first game, we all were pale and out of breath. The last game was a 11-0 skunk and Mike and Tom hit the showers first in distraught. We each took roughly 45 minute showers. Proceeding with the rest day agenda, we headed for the neighborhood pool hall. There were many pool sharks in attendance yet we were not one of them. After going down to a quick 3 games to 0, Mike and I were able to claw our way back and take the best of 9 game series 5-4. The other team fell apart the last game with one player refusing to play and the other claiming to play the worst game of their life. The winning team was later compared to the Kobe of billiards. Later that night we watched a movie in Tom and Mike's bus and ate one dozen donuts and drank a 2 liter of Dr. Pepper and fell asleep after we crashed from the sugar high and the end of the movie. We slept abnormally late today, but woke up to nearly one foot of snow. Jesus has never seen snow and has no windows in the back of the car he sleeps in (here). He opened the hatch from where he slept oblivious and was nearly snowed in. No one seemed to have desire to cook breakfast this morning so walked from our campsite in the back of a Walmart to IHOP and all but one ordered "all you can eat" pancakes. The amount of pancakes consumed was only matched by the number of cups of coffee drank. Now here we are at the coffee shop downtown. It is still snowing and whispers of a rematch at the pool hall are circulating. Tomorrow is my birthday eve and most likely will be snowed out of climbing yet again. We intend to split a hotel room downtown and go to a Talib Kweli show at the Orphanage here in Flag. Who knows what will happen....

This is blog is pretty boring but if you have nothing else to do. . . boring blog

Wednesday, April 6, 2011











Tom Seymore calls my blog boring and that I dont update enough and I dont appreciate that comment. I have been out of cell service for the past week, I lost my phone the week before, I got pulled over again, the cop said he caught me speeding through town twice. . . only me. . . no ticket though, and now I am in Flagstaff with Jesus, who I met in Hueco, and Tom and Mike drove down from Bishop last night. We are gonna stay here for about ten days, then I will leave for California. So that is the summary of the past couple weeks, and now I will try and include some details. Jesus and I left El Paso last Thursday and went to the town of Datil, NM to Enchanted Tower with our sights set on 120 foot steep pockety super routes. I got pumped beyond repair but managed to send some really cool routes. The lifestyle for those four days was just amazing. The camping is right at the base of the cliffs in a high altitude meadow surrounded by elk, ponderosa pines, junipers, and cedars. Jesus ate his first smore, well his first 8 smores, and one day was engulfed in 50+ mph winds the entire day. We drove to Flagstaff Monday night and enjoyed cheeseburgers and Guiness pints at a local pub before trying to find the Priest Draw and its camping. We did not succeed and were forced to park and sleep at a Walmart in town and try to find the place the next morning. We showed up late to Walmart and wove our way through atleast 40 other vans, campers and RV's. It seems as if everyone camps at Walmart here in Flagstaff. The next day Jesus and I bouldered all day at the Draw and sampled many of the classic problems. Steep pockets is the what seems to be in style here and we kinda got our ass kicked the first day. After managing to send a couple problems we drove back to the campsite (parking lot) and went to bed. Tom and Mike showed up late that night and now we are all taking a rest day, checking out what town has to offer. Flagstaff seems like a mix between Asheville and Chattanooga and a little Athens. There is good food, cool shops, a variety of people and mountains everywhere. We all decided to split a hotel room due to all of our need of showers. I most definitely smell the best of everyone. These other three guys are a bunch of uncivilized dirty hippies. I dont even know why I am hanging out with them.