Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Its getting hotter here, and my time in Hueco is getting close to winding down. I have 16 days left here and I have 7 problems that I would really like to send before departing. I have never had so many projects in one place. I have no idea how to choose which one to work (or do) everyday. Its a skill I guess I have to learn. I have climbed the past three days. The first day I spent about half the day doing some highball (tall climbs) easy moderates and then took three hours to work "El Techo de los tres" a problem that seems at my absolute physical limit. I cant do the crux move right now but feel somewhat close. I love this problem because I can work the moves by myself and it is really really hard for me. Its my first project that I am psyched on that isnt just a long problem in which I just have to string the moves together in one go but an 8 move extremely unique and physical problem. The next day I went to West Mountain with Nick and Jill Church, two extraordinary people. They are both nurses and have a house in Flagstaff and Boone. They are both strong as hell and humble. They have a 5 month old little girl, Iris, who comes everywhere. It is amazing the things they hike up and down with her, quite impressive. The pictures from that day above are the crux of my favorite problem of the trip thus far: Best of the Best. Yesterday I went to the East Spur Maze with Nick and Jill again, and really accomplished nothing, yet had a great day. No hiking, constant laughter, and no expectations from climbing for three days in a row is the recipe for an extremely enjoyable day. Later that night Yoshi, a 43 year old from Japan who does not speak english, Jesus, a 25 year old from Monterrey, Mexico, Arturo, also from Mexico, and Joe, who is from southern California, has and endless reservoir of energy and came into the Ranch's kitchen with plaid shorts, a red cape, and a beanie with cat ears made dinner together while drinking our fair share of beer and wine. Dinner was a 5 hour process, laughter was more prevalent than calories in a McDonalds. The one thing that kept us laughing is how Yoshi has chosen Jesus to be his translator. I will ask Yoshi a question in, I feel pretty clear english, he wont understand and Jesus will tell him in broken english and he understands. Pretty funny. Yoshi is no more than 100 pounds and eats nothing during the day but eats 5 times more than anyone at night. He loves Mexican food and I will never understand how he got a rental car. Jesus is gonna travel with me for the next few months, to Flagstaff, then CA, then Utah. I cant wait to see other places. I also cannot wait till next weekend when Stephanie Lyons is spending the weekend at Hueco with me all the way from the ATL. I am worried that she wont be able to leave.
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